Yesterday (cause I am writing this first thing in the morning) was another great day. Back to back awesomes. We started out having breakfast with our new friends Robin and Amy, and two women, one from Arkansas and the other North Carolina. Great omlette, coffee and conversation then off to our next big adventure. Saying good bye, and with no time to spare the car raced to meet the tour group. Fifty five miles to cover in fifty minutes (remember the speed bumps).
We drove west along the Western Highway for about an hour to the meeting point, parked our rental, and headed down what is best described as a cattle path (and not a well kept one at that) for about 15 minutes. The van passed a mahogany tree farm which looked like one of Irvings tree farms back home. There was a base camp where we were outfitted with a helment, box lunch and a few basic instructions. We then headed out on a 40 minute hike through the jungle that included
three stream crossings. On the way there were ants, ants, ants. You know, the kind we seen on the nature shows where they walk in 1" wide colums, carrying the fruits of their labour one way, and returning another. Just like in the shows you could see the workers carrying the leaves and the sentries both providing protection and keeping things moving.OK. Sideabar. Speaking of critters. When we checked in last night, for the third straight night Mary Lou screamed Oh..Oh..Oh..Mitch..Mitch...come here...quick. Must be time to kill some critter (so you know, I don't really like killing anything). There on the toilet paper was a large green striped tree frog. and there was no way I was killing that. In trying to herd it out the thing jumped over my head onto the wall. It took another few minutes of corralling, but it finally hopped out the door. I brought that up here as the ant discussion reminded me of all the different things that are found in rooms in Belize. For us it has been spiders, both large and small, geckos, june bugs, centipedes, and now a frog. One of the other people on the tour, a pharmaceutical researcher from Worchester Mass., found a scorpion in a dresser. So far, no snakes.
After our treck through the jungle, we arrived at the mouth of the cave. As we would be in there for over three hours our guide suggested to eat part of the lunch, and head to the woods for a system purge. Everwhere you could see was a washroom. Once business was taken care of we donned our helmets, put the cameras in the wet bag, and jumped into the stream at the entrance to the cave. The water was cool, but not cold.
Inside the cave was like nothing you could have expected. Unbelievable. As gifted as man (and I mean that in the species sense) is, as wonderful the works of art we create, as amazing the things we build, we don't come close to mother nature. The many varied formations of the stalagtites and stalagmites, the colors of the rocks, the natural bridges and walkways, expansive ceilings that seem a mile high: well you just forget where you are. At times there were ceilings so high it felt like being outside looking up at the sky, and other times there were crevices so small one wonders how anyone could fit through (moi in particular came to mind).Now, I have to say it was extremely surprising how nimble, yes nimble, I was in the cave. My concern over size being a problem was unfounded, and was actually an advantage. Where some of the smaller people had to lower themselves carefully in many areas, my longer legs allowed me to reach the footholds. When many were clinging to the rocks, I simply swam around not being afraid of the water, and (yes, I am bragging here) my upperbody strength allowed me to maneuver through tight spaces and up and down drops without having to use my legs. Very manly.
Anyway, we moved in for about an hour and a half, in water all the way ranging from ankle deep to over our head, over a distance the guide says was just under a mile. The caves went on for a total of approximately 3 miles, and it takes a full day by cave explorers to traverse the length. At the end of our trek in, we started climbing. It is surprising that with all the moisture and polished rock, it was not slippery. When we reached the pinnacle, we were in the middle of a living museum (that is, if fourteen people who have been dead for over a thousand years count as living). While the caves had been mapped, a decision had been made to leave everything undisturbed. So the ceramic pots were perfectly preserved over a thousand years . There were also five skeletal remains for viewing, all well preserved, including one of a young women " The Crystal Maiden", whose position looked to me like she had been sexually assulted and left to die. There was a hole in the skull that clearly made by a sharp object.
Our guide provided an explaination of the brutality of the era, and the belief that those sacrificed were given a special place in the afterlife, but how could it be anything but terrifying to know you would die, and painfully at that. I would have taken a few with me on the way, that is for sure.
Oh right. Forgot about the coincidence. The guide told us about an archaeological professor from Trent University who had spent seven years mapping the cave system. He held the prof in high esteem, as apparently did the Belizian government. I'm guessing about 15 minutes after the discussion, on our hike in, who was making his way out, but the good professor, giving his own tour to two other colleagues, one from Australia, the other from France. The doc was a good looking guy in his fifties, a little Indiana Jonesish. Couldn't help thinking that if "chicks dig archaeologists", he does alright for himself.
A moment of self discovery. We forgot to pack deoderant for the trip. Since we are spending much of the time in water somewhere, didn't figure it mattered. Well, I figured wrong. You remember those commercials of the women in the subway, checking their armpits to see if they smelled. Well, when you are lowering yourself down a crevice, and your pits are at nose level, that is the point you realize deoderant does matter. Last nights activities included purchase of some Right Guard.
The trek out was about half the time of that in, and the dreaded climb down was no problem at all. I was a bit, not a lot, but a bit proud of myself for the two days in the caves. My two phobias(heights and claustrophia) were not a problem, and when they did show
themselves, I stared them down, and laughed in their faces. I actually have a third phobia, fear of running out of beer, but not sure what the official name is.The rain came as we got back to our car, which suited us fine, quite refreshing in fact after the return jungle walk. There is a big difference in the scenery in this area of the country, as the rains bring the green with it. Our drive to St Ignacio was enjoyable and the hotel that Robin booked for us, the Midas Lodge, was neat. Great setting, and we had our own Cabana, probably our favourite room of the trip so far.
For supper we drove into town (3 minutes) and ate at an open air cafe called Hannah's. The food was fantastic, and when Mary Lou got her two plates (finally the ellusive rice and beans) there was enough to feed a trucker. She had no trouble finishing. Mine was the largest beef burrito I have seen, which I gobbled up as well. Great food, great and quick service. All of the customers were Expats, mostly Americans from listening to the conversations (did I say snooping). The local beer Bellekin, was not bad, not the greatest, but they do have great billboard advertisements.
After dinner, back to the cabana, fired up the netbook, and immediately fell asleep with it on my chest. It was 7:30. Dreamed sweet dreams.
We just finished our breakfast, outdoors again. Today is the trip to Gutemala. We are supposed to go to the Mayan ruins of Tikal, but think I'd rather just go and get down with the locals in Flores. Haven't shaved in a week and am starting to look like Jeramiah Johnson.
Thats it.
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